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You Can Take the Girl Out of Japan ….

February 24, 2010 in Ex-Patriate Games, I'm Learning Japanese ... I Really Think So, Ireland, Japanese Mix, Looking, Oishii, spazarific

… and she’ll still find a way to gorge herself on delicious Japanese food. Here, we have a cup of umeshu and the sashimi appetizer at Ukiyo on Exchequer Street :

Followed by orders of kimchi, kimchi chigae, rice and bulgogi (which are, obviously, not Japanese, but that’s what we ate after the sashimi. 美味しいかった!)

You can take the girl out of Japan and she’ll get herself that Japanese food whether she has to buy it (see above) or make it herself (see below). 

First she dips the veggies and the shrimp in the batter … then she fries it up in the brand new wok while nikujaga simmers on one of the four burners ….

Then she eats, and remembers a time when she woke up to the sound of the JR train, or the yaki imo vendors shouting; when she rode to work next to men in black suits, kids in military-style school uniforms, and obaa-chans in kimono. When she bought a negitoro onigiri for lunch and ate it hunched over the communal desk at school, dreaming of the CocoIchiban Curry House next door. When she made sure to face her kids at all times, lest she lowered her fort’s defenses to kancho penetration.

She remembers a time when she studied verbs on the train home and gauged a day in terms of “Good” or “Bad” by how well she spoke Japanese. When summer meant matsuri, mugicha, and nagashi soumen; fall meant matake, sanma, and momijigari; winter meant nabe, marron, and crab; spring meant sakura and beer. When she slept on a futon. When she capped off her day by heading down to the local izakaya and when the grill cooks saw her coming, they automatically brought out three beers for her and her two buddies, who they knew would be along shortly. 

And the boys would arrive, toast their beers – kanpai! – and launch into a debate while she tried to read every item on the menu. And she’d order fried potato – golden, with a pat of butter melting on top – crispy tako no kara age, and several kinds of yakitori. Gyu rosu. Negima. Kokoro. Reba. Zuri. And invariably, she’d ask the waitress for “nippon.” And the boys would remind her for the hundredth time – it’s nihon. Ippon, nihon, sambon. And she’d nod. And forget immediately. 

This post has been brought to you by WanderFood Wednesday.

Fun (ふん)in the Snow

January 13, 2010 in dublin, Ex-Patriate Games, I'm Learning Japanese ... I Really Think So, Japanese Mix, Looking, spazarific

Last weekend, there was snow, snow, everywhere. Snowmen dotted the streets and we became jealous, desperate to feed the kid within us. So we stomped into a park and started making a snowman of our own. Then we realized it was hard work making a snowman, and changed the design to a wedding cake. We sculpted and patted, scooped and molded …

Looks like our years in Japan affected us more than we thought. 

The Blacker the Tea

January 4, 2010 in Ex-Patriate Games, I'm Learning Japanese ... I Really Think So, Ireland, Japanese Mix, Oishii, spazarific, Things I Will Miss About Japan

I never drank tea before I moved to Japan. There, it came in shades of green and black and barley; iced in the summer, steaming in the winter. Tea straight up, sometimes with bitter leaves or bright green powder swimming about in the smooth ceramic cup. Dozens of varieties in the store – loose, bagged, and bottled. Tea in the morning, tea in the afternoon, tea before bed.  お茶を飲んだら、元気に成ります! Tea, tea, tea. Gorgeous middle-aged Japanese women and their lifelong buckets of tea. 

Ireland is also a tea nation. It’s black tea here – poured an inch or so away from the top of the cup to allow for a few cooling splashes of milk. Tea, tea, tea. Morning, noon, and night. You’ll have a cup, won’t you? Ah, go on. Have a cup, so. Help yourself to a biccie and a cuppa. Ah, go on. Go on, go on, go on. 

I don’t like drinking my tea with milk – it’s delicious, but I can’t help but feel that all the health benefits are squelched by the cholesterol and fat. I drink the black tea straight up, as I did in Japan. 

The looks I get. 

“Ah, I don’t know, like,” tut the Irish. “Drinking it without milk. I don’t know how you do it.” 

“It’s fine, really.”

“Not even a splash!”

“Nope.”

They eat their biscuits. They watch me drink. They shake their heads.

いいな?

August 14, 2009 in Ex-Patriate Games, I'm Learning Japanese ... I Really Think So, Japanese Mix, Looking, My Funny Irish Friend, New York, Oishii, spazarific

Sean and I are having lunch in Little Tokyo on St. Mark’s before our yoga class. Little Tokyo wasn’t Little Tokyo when I moved to Japan. There were a couple of sushi places, a JAS Mart, and the now-famous Kenka Ya; one of New York City’s first izakayas. I visited Kenka Ya once with Erma. I remember thinking it was such a unique location.  Before I moved to Japan, Japanese food in New York City consisted of sushi, tempura, udon, teppanyaki, katsu don, and robatayaki. Now I find takoyaki, curry, gyu don, okonomiyaki, ramen, and yakiniku. There are Japanese signs and writing all over the menus. I can’t tell if it was always there or if I only notice it because I can now read it.

So, somehow, in New York, we’re in the same place as we were 6 months ago. Sean has gyu don and I have ebi ten. We are the only non-Japanese people in the udon shop. The food tastes exactly the same as the food we ate in Japan. J-Pops is on the sound system and we hear Japanese spoken around us. If we stop for a second, we can imagine that we’re back in Osaka and nothing has really changed.

“いいな,” I tell Sean.

“いいよ,” he replies.

Sweet, Sweet Marie’s

June 19, 2009 in "Teaching" English, Ex-Patriate Games, I'm Learning Japanese ... I Really Think So, Japanese Mix, Looking, New York, spazarific, The Odd Siblings, True Fairy Tales of New York

A few years back, I pitched a profile of a West Village piano bar to a local events magazine. An former client had told me about the place years before and I’d always wanted an excuse to go. “It’s a singalong place,” my client had said. “A dark bar. A piano. Drunk gay men everywhere. The men sing the men’s parts, the women sing the women’s parts. They do practically any Broadway song you can think of.”  He might as well have said, You know. The kind of place you’d live in if you could, because “Broadway Hag” is your middle name.

After my pitch was greenlighted, I haunted the place for weeks; skulking in the corner with a series of vodka tonics, scrawling paragraphs – “Tonight’s pianist whacks his head against the wall to keep time with the music” – and whispering the words to the showtunes. My former client had been right; I adored the place. I wanted so badly to sing like the other patrons, who swarmed the piano underneath the low wooden ceiling, strung with twinkling Christmas lights. There were caterwaulers who couldn’t hold a note to save their lives and then there were real singers who could hush a room with awe. If only I, too, could get up the nerve to sing. Song after song, everyone seemed to know the words. I visited often enough to witness the rotation of pianists and Darin quickly became my favorite. It was his easy charm that finally made me feel comfortable enough to sidle up to the piano, even if I was still too shy to open my mouth. During the day, I put the longing behind me and trolled official records to focus on researching the history of the building – built in the 1700s and home to the revolutionary pamphleteer Thomas Paine. The steel mural of ghostly soldiers behind the bar? Created by the WPA, designed to depict the French and American Revolutionary wars. The rafters in the ceiling? Ship’s beams. The panels on the wall? Also rescued from an old ship. The name? A blending of the original bar’s owner’s and a nod to The Crisis.

My love letter article came out at the end of October, 2005. I returned to Marie’s with trepidation – would the staff and clientele like what I had said? Would they have put two and two together and figured out that the chatty girl in the corner with the notebook was the one who had reported the goings on of a recent birthday party held at the bar? Would I still be welcome in what had rapidly become my favorite place? I tiptoed down the steps through the thundering notes and whoops, slinking my way to my usual cove behind the empty fireplace – my guilty footsteps falling in time with the bouncy opening notes of, “All That Jazz.”

Jim was playing that evening, and his sharp eye caught my angsty movements.

“You!” he shouted. “You’re the one!” I hung my head, ready for the men around the piano to hurl the sample packets of Viagra – given to Jim as a tip – at my head.

No Viagra. Just a drink on the house. My favorite place was safe.

I became a regular – ecstatic to trip down the stairs and drink in the atmosphere of liquor, happiness, music and history. I always avoided weekends and favored the middle of the week, when Darin played. One night, I began to sing and since then, I was never afraid again. My last night at the bar was several days before I moved to Japan. I returned – lured as if by a spell – each time I visited for the holidays and each time, Darin was nowhere to be found.

“You’ve missed him,” said the waitresses. “He’s here on Wednesdays/Fridays/Tuesdays now.” Each time I returned to the bar it was as if I was stepping into a time capsule. Same old drunks, Christmas lights, and Cabaret. But never Darin.

When I moved back to New York last month, I celebrated my acceptance to “Christminster” by treating myself to a few drinks at the bar. Once again, no Darin. There was a man I didn’t recognize, who read his music from a Kindle-like device. None of the faces at the bar seemed familiar, but the music always was. My mood was electric; I still couldn’t quite understand that I’d really, truly, been accepted to “Christminster” and was going to get my Master’s of Philosophy in Creative Writing. In my glee, I gulped vodka tonic after vodka tonic and soon I was giggling into my chest.

“Thank god for you, Catherine,” I yapped to the woman next to me. “You’re a real singer. You keep us all in key. Thank god for you. You keep us honest.”

I had my notebook on my lap and began scrawling in time to the music:

I AM REALLY TRULY GOING TO FREAKING “CHRISTMINSTER” TO GET MY MASTER’S

I WILL NOT SPELL ANYTHING WITH AN EXTRA “U”

In the past, my drunken turns at the bar had been of the angry, heartbroken variety – ending with my stumbling home, muttering to myself. This drunkenness was of the celebratory variety, but I didn’t know how truly drunk I was until I stood to dance. My vodka tonic-a-thon ended with my cabbing it to Diego’s and hunching over his toilet for half an hour.

The next morning, Diego found me sprawled out on his bed and surrounded by plastic bags.

“Just tell me where you threw up,” he said, grim faced. “Tell me all of those bags aren’t full.”

None of them were. I had dragged them into bed with me in case I was too tired to get up again but left them untouched out of drunken paranoia that I’d suffocate while holding them around my mouth.

*

I visited the bar again last night. After 2 and a half years of searching for Darin to no avail, I didn’t have high hopes for actually finding him. But yet, last night? There he was – cameoed in the red-paned windows.

My happiness making me instantly shy, I slipped past the piano and crept to my old hiding spot near the fireplace. There was a group of screeching college-aged tourists sprawled on the piano; woo-ing and dancing with each other. I watched them – first, with interest and then with disdain. They were exceedingly loud and, to be honest, quite annoying. They blocked my view and overrode Darin’s playing with their drunken warbles. I tried to remember that they had every right to have as much fun as they wanted; after all, I’d certainly had my share here. I asked the waitress for a glass of white wine and listened to Darin play.

He noticed me during one of the last choruses of “Cabaret” and his face lit up the same way mine had when I saw him.

“You!” he said. “You stayed away longer than you said you were going to!”

“What can I say?” I asked. “I fell in love.”

He played Fame. He played Little Shop. The girls at the piano screamed and hollered. I sipped my wine blissfully. And next to me, a Japanese woman glowed on her bar stool. My face instantly began to burn, so strong was the desire to speak to her.

As luck would have it, she spoke to me first.

“This is like karaoke,” she said. She was speaking to me because everyone speaks to everyone at the piano bar. “But this is better than karaoke.”

“How do we ask him to play Sinatra?” asked her friend, sneaking up behind me. “By the way, I’m Ted. I’m from Kansas. This is Mio – she’s from Japan.”

“矢っ張り,” I said – the Japanese rushing forth in a relieved gush like a yoga breath before I had time to wonder if it was rude to say, “I thought so.”

“ええ ええ!” cried the woman – probably before she had time to wonder if it was rude to display shock that a non-Japanese person might speak some Japanese. “日本語を喋るの?”

” はい . 喋るよ,” I lied, spurred by drunken happiness. I had seen Darin again for the first time in 2 and a half years, he was happy to see me, he was playing “Grease” and if I wasn’t mistaken, I was feeling the dawn of a Good Japanese Night so why not? Maybe tonight I did really speak Japanese.

“本当?” she asked happily. Really?

本真 や.” I replied. Really, y’all!

“ええ ええ!” she cried. “大阪に住んでいました,  ね?”

Cat was out of the bag – she guessed I’d lived in Osaka. Could it have been something I said?!

… a word about my now-compulsive use of Osaka dialect. Like almost all people who study Japanese, I learned standard Tokyo-ben and was introduced to tenengo verb endings, not plain forms. Two years of dealing with schoolchildren in Osaka have hammered plain forms and Osaka-ben into my brain so now, even when I meet someone new, my brain reaches for the casual comedians’ speech as opposed to the polite speech. My cheeks burned again – this time in embarrassment.

But, you know, the embarrassment melts, somehow, when singing is involved.

Darin played. We sang. Mio asked me if I knew any Japanese songs and when I mentioned that I love Iruka, her “ええ ええ!” threatened to knock me off of my bar stool. Then we sang a few bars of なごり雪, clasping hands like old friends. And it wasn’t strange, this singing and speaking of Japanese in my beloved Marie’s Crisis, listening to my favorite pianist play. It was different, yet all the same. I’m different – obviously, if I’m chatting to random strangers in Japanese – but still the same. You can come home again … even if you’ve changed a little.

Someone toasted us. The Christmas lights twinkled and illuminated the WPA mural behind the bar. The college girls were gone and in their place, a group of men itching to sing Hernando’s Hideaway. I pressed my feet against the back of the old wooden piano, remembering how many times I’d done so to feel the notes vibrating against my feet when I was an angry, lost 25 year-old – so sure that, somehow, literally feeling the music in my body would lead me to an epiphany as beautiful as the songs I sang until 4 in the morning.

// Listen to a Lesson about 矢っ張り

Nihonjin, I presume?

May 22, 2009 in Ex-Patriate Games, I'm Learning Japanese ... I Really Think So, Japanese Mix, spazarific

There’s a Japanese grocery store just a few blocks away from my brother’s apartment. I’ve been eyeing it since before Sean left. Every time I pass it, though, it happens to be closed. It doesn’t help, of course, that I rarely leave the apartment before 8 these days. I’m inside, avoiding the siren call of cupcakessunhatsmakeup, sending resumes, soliciting my successful writer/editor friends for advice, pecking at essays and travel articles I want to pitch. For cash, I’m back to transcribing interviews for said successful writer/editor friends. Despite my rah rah rah zeal to get back to the New York City journalism scene, I’m starting to feel nervous yet again; like the me who wasted 8 years in one of the most exciting cities on Earth due to insecurity. Office hours are 9-5. 5-8 tends to be when I cook dinner. Or webchat with Sean. 8 tends to be when I head out for a walk. And then, yet again, Momotaro will be closed.

Each morning I vow: this will be the day I get to Momotaro. Each evening, I pass by and see the shut gate. I’ve started to focus on getting out of the house early enough to make it there and am sure that my intentions involve more than scoring konbu dashi for the tempura sauce I keep saying I want to make. No. My intentions are more duplicitous; I want to practice Japanese.

Yes.

I know.

All the times I complained about being solicited by random Japanese people. All the times I bristled when my arrival at a restaurant spurred interest. I just wanted to fade in to the background, as much as was possible. I didn’t want to be pounced upon with a “Herro!” … I just wanted to buy my shampoo.

And now all I can think about is how my Japanese will surely fade if I don’t speak it. After two years, I’m finally at the point where merely listening can boost my skills and I can’t help but feel it’s a crucial moment for my Japanese development. On the streets, my ears perk like a Yorkshire Terrier’s when I hear random yelps of Japanese. I peer at any Japanese writing I see. I’m considering joining Netflix again just to have access to Japanese movies. I’m thirsting. I’m hurting. I’ve become what I hate.

I made it to Momotaro today. There was no howls of いらっしゃいませ! as I entered, but to my delight, I did hear Japanese spoken behind me. To my right was a fresh vegetable display I might have seen at Supa Tamade; daikon, mint leaves, shitake, and kappa. To the left, two young Japanese kids enjoying mochi at a booth. Directly ahead of me, a cash register run by a Japanese girl speaking English with exactly the same inflections as my ex students. I was surprised to feel my heart swell.

I always knew there would be certain things I would miss about Japan when I finally left. No tipping. Coco Ichibanya curry. Drinking in public. I didn’t expect to miss the smell of dashi, or coolers stocked with Calpis and Oi Ocha. For years now, I’ve missed Pillsbury. Couscous. Wedges of cheese larger than a thumb. Don’t get me wrong – I’ve trolled the D’Agostino’s next door to Diego’s apartment simply to stare at boxes of Stove Top stuffing or rolls of snowy soft Charmin. But I’m confused. I’m caught in the early days of repatriation and I don’t know what I’m supposed to miss anymore.

Behind me, I heard a flurry of English-accented Japanese. I turned to find a middle aged man, no doubt a former expat like myself, chattering away to the teens who had previously been enjoying their mochi.

“おいしい???” he beamed. I wanted to shrink at the inanity of his question; the utter obviousness of his ploy to practice. I felt as if I’d been mentally spanked by my own psyche for my selfish desire to hear some Japanese. Stealthily, I retreated into the safety of the dry goods aisles to focus on my search for dashi. My mood immediately brightened as I noticed the same exact brands I’d seen in Japan. Kewpie salad dressings. Itoen green tea. Kogame vegetable juice. I immediately snatched up a 3-pack of udon and a bottle of the goma dressing I’d poured on everything from soba to salad, but the dashi was a little harder to find.

I noticed the stock boy hovering near me. It’s happened before, since leaving Japan, that I’ve lapsed into Japanese without thinking; when someone bumps into me, out comes the すみません. The stock boy nodded at me, and surrounded by soba, Cook Do packets, and goma oil, before I knew what was happening, it slipped out. Pardon me, I’m looking for the dashi. ます form. “ですが” instead of “ですけど,” since Sean has told me it’s more polite.

“I’m sorry,” said the stock boy. “I’m not Japanese.”

If the middle aged man’s “おいしい???” was a spank to my psyche, this was a pistol whip. Especially since I can usually spot a Japanese person from Japan the way I could spot another Westerner in Japan. They glow to me now. The attitude, the expression, the clothes, the features. There can be no mistake. I thought there could be no mistake.

“I’m sorry!” I cried, my hands growing clammy around my udon and my goma dressing.

“Don’t worry,” said the stock boy. “Everyone thinks I’m Japanese.”

“But … but …” I sputtered, wilting in my shame.

“Have you been to Japan?” he asked.

“I … I lived there for 2 years.  I just got back 3 weeks ago.” Shame, shame, shame.

“That’s why your Japanese is so good,” he said.

“Look!” I said. “I’m really sorry. I used to hate it in Japan when people just assumed I’m American because I’m ….”

“It’s okay. Really.” said the stock boy. “Everyone thinks so. And I work here.”

As I left the Japanese grocery store, I was surprised to find that I was near tears. I wasn’t sure if it was because I was humiliated, crushed by the irony, Japan-sick, or, after getting a load of all those Tohato potato chips, just plain hungry.

For Better, For Worse: Ways I’ve Improved Thanks to My Time in Japan

May 15, 2009 in Ex-Patriate Games, I'm Learning Japanese ... I Really Think So, Japanese Mix, spazarific, The Odd Siblings, Things I Will Miss About Japan

Great success – Diego has, in fact, noticed that I am the New and Improved Liv with Increased Sudsing Action! Not only did he high-five me several times on Cleaning Sunday, but I even overheard him telling his girlfriend on the phone that I am “earning [my] keep.” This pleases me greatly; I did so hope that he would notice. It was important to me that he would. After all, I didn’t go away for 27 months to a country thousands of miles away just to have everyone exclaim, “You haven’t changed a bit!”

It’s a metamorphosis fantasy – time away will somehow transform us. We will leave as rough and ugly caterpillars and return as brilliant butterflies. While we are growing up, summer vacation is our best chance to reinvent ourselves. “Calm, cool, and collected” was my summer mantra between my Sophomore and Junior years; it was wildly unsuccessful. In adulthood, we return from vacations itching for our coworkers to notice our tan or our newfound inner peace. We meet with exes after years apart hoping they notice that we’ve lost the baby fat. How will we be different after returning from this wild experiment that is life abroad? Will we be more cultured? Will we be more interesting? Or will we be the obnoxious former expat who begins every sentence with, “When I lived in Prague ….”?

I moved to Japan because my life in New York wasn’t working. My career was nowhere. My love life was nowhere. My literary dreams were dead. I was 26 years old and while I had great friends, a wonderful family and was living in a fabulous city, I couldn’t seem to make things work. I knew I had to change.

You know the rest; 27 months of molestation at the hands of Japanese children and I’ve been scared straight. I return loaded with creative inspiration, an exciting new career track and my love life is light years away from where it used to be. But living in Japan didn’t just help whip those two important areas of my life in shape. I feel I’ve improved in other ways as well.

Thanks to my time in Japan, I am a better person today in the realms of:

  • Tardiness
  • Thoughtfulness
  • Cleanliness
  • Knowledge
  • Confidence
  • Self-Reliance
  • Gratitude

I’ve already examined my improved approach to Cleanliness. Tardiness is perhaps the second most obvious area in which I’ve improved. I, the chronically late one. Fast forward 27 months and my friends are now surprised to find me waiting for them when they arrive for our dates. All Japan; Japanese punctuality is no urban myth. The few times I was late for work, I was required to fill out a form stating the reasons. How late was I? No more than two minutes. It goes even further: at my company, teachers who were habitually late to school were given poorer yearly evaluations – leading to no raise – and were sometimes coerced to quit. The silver lining, of course, is that things happen when they’re supposed to happen. And trains? Ah, trains – they almost always come when they’re supposed to come. Should a sarariman have the gall to jump in front of the Rapid Express and make you tardy, the station attendant will personally hand you a ticket stating what time your train arrived – all so you don’t have to fill out an apology form for your boss and get docked pay.

The MTA makes me crazy these days – and not because of the fare hikes. I’ve grown accustomed to being able to count on my subways, to time my trips uptown to the minute. I loved the flashing electronic announcements that the train was about to respectfully approach. I loved the train attendants waving people through with their white-gloved hands. I don’t love sticking my neck out into a dark subway tunnel to see if the stupid 6 train has seen fit to come on down just yet. But while I would once blame my tardiness on the train, I now leave 20 minutes early. Tardiness is a frame of mind, folks. And when it all comes down to it, it’s about respect for others.

Thoughtfulness: The Japanese like to think of society’s needs before their own. The downside of this concept is that it tends to lead to conformity. The upside is that people pull together to make things easier for each other. A common stereotype complaint about foreigners in Japan is that we simply don’t do this. We (supposedly) sprawl our (obviously) fat selves all over the empty train seats. We (supposedly) wear too much perfume. We (supposedly) speak too loudly. We (do) have the nerve to answer our phones in a crowd. We (also) eat in public, spraying crumbs and grease everywhere. There were many, many times while I lived in Japan that I grew angry with these edicts. Why couldn’t I eat in public? I wasn’t allowed to eat at work either and I was starving! And what, really, was the problem with answering my phone on the train? I had to tell my friend I was going to be 2 minutes late!

It’s nice to be home where I can have a knish on the train without fear of giving an obachan a heart attack. But it was also nice to know that my train rides would be quiet and relatively free of trash. Thoughtfulness towards others. I’m more careful now to make sure I’m not blocking anyone’s seat with my bags; it’s a crowded train. I’ll wait until I’m off the bus to return a call; no one wants to hear me complain about the MTA. I try to keep my voice low in public and have also stopped mugging little old ladies. Some New Yorkers might say that I’ve lost my charm. But I feel better about myself for it.

Confidence: I suppose my increased confidence in certain things might be due in part to the inevitable maturation process, but my new confidence about my writing and acceptance of my small size are definitely a product of my time in Japan. At 4’11″, I’m below average height in America but things were especially rough when I was a child – before puberty helped lessen the disparity between myself and my peers. When I was 8 years old, our pediatrician told my parents to take me to a specialist to figure out why I wasn’t growing as fast as regular kids my age. Too young to understand what these trips to Shands Hospital meant, I assumed I was abnormal. In the 7th grade, some of the “normal-sized” girls in my class told me I was a freak and that boys would never like me because boys only wanted “real women.” I believed them for years. Even when I became an adult and had more than enough proof that “real men” were attracted to me, the doubt lingered. “Fat Days” never applied to me; instead, I had “Short Days.” I loathed the word “petite” – it sounded like a condescending euphemism for something unbearably ugly. I must admit that part of the attraction to moving to Japan was that I might blend in a little better. That naive hope makes me laugh a little now but I will say this; unlike a lot of foreigners living in Japan, I never cared that my face stood out in a sea of Japanese people. I only cared that for the first time in my life, I was “average height.”And that finally helped me get over it, even when I came home and was below average once again.

I’ve stopped glancing at myself in store mirrors to see how I measure up to my “normal-size” friends. The truth is, many of them are very close to my height; they only seemed so much taller because of my insecurity. I wear flats a lot these days and my formerly high heel-tortured feet love it.

Gratitude: While I was living in Japan, I experienced many wonderful new things. New friendships, new sights, new sounds, new foods, loads of inspiration for the first time in years. But being so far away from what’s familiar can make you a lot more grateful for what you had. I never knew how great it was to understand everything that was said to me, nor did I realize how much I cherished the small moments with my friends; learning what they had for lunch, admiring their new shoes, hearing how annoyed they were with their bosses. A lot of people complain about Facebook because they’re uninterested in “useless information” like what coffee their sister likes. Not me. When you don’t see your loved ones for months or even years at a stretch, these are the things you miss. These are the things that make you feel like you’re actively part of someone’s life. Back home in my beloved city, I’m far more eager to take advantage of the things I used to take for granted. Walks through Central Park. Free summertime events. East Village yoga classes. Happy hours. Farmer’s Market. My friends’ rants about how Gossip Girl glorifies a reprehensibly warped view of youth; the gorgeousness of your teens combined with the confidence of your 30′s. I’ve really, really missed it all so. It’s going to be a wonderful summer.

Knowledge: This goes without saying, but living in a foreign culture gives you inside access to a totally different world. Different issues. Different celebrities. In America, women don’t want to date a junkie. In Japan, women don’t want to date a first-born son. Paris Hilton = The Kana Sisters, G.W. Bush = Taro Aso, Doris Day = Takeshita Keiko. When you live in Japan, you might pop over to Beijing for an international weekend getaway. You don’t discuss politics. You congratulate each other on a job well done instead of wishing each other a nice day. If you’re not married, you probably live at home. The Ainu are your Native Americans. You might feel guilty about what your ancestors did to the Koreans. Springtime means drinking beer under the cherry blossom trees, summer means barley tea and nagashi soumen, fall means sanma and maple leaves, winter means bowls of hot, steaming nabe and dozing under the kotatsu. You don’t conjugate the noun to create a plural, but you conjugate the number itself. Your vowel sounds go: a i u e o. You point at your nose to signify yourself. You cross your forearms to signify, “No!”  These are all things I never knew before I moved to Japan. I’m so very glad that I learned them now.

And finally, Self-Reliance: It’s challenging to move to a country where you don’t speak or read the language. I had no idea how complicated Japanese can be to learn for native English speakers. Many foreigners move to Japan and only make the merest efforts to learn the language; a couple of stock phrases here, a lot of helpful Japanese friends there. I couldn’t do that; I needed to do things myself. The first year was rough but passing Level 4 of the JLPT gave me confidence. By the time I left Japan, I had passed Level 3. I was discussing my phone plan with my phone company. I was complaining to the post office that my mail wasn’t arriving. I was chatting with my students’ mothers. I was making bank transfers. By myself. I never knew I had it in me, but I’m guessing my bank clerk is relieved that I did.

I still talk far too much, and have probably irritated a few friends by now with my “In Japan ….” stories. I still get tense far too easily. I’m still a nervous wreck in social situations. I still burst capillaries if I sense the slightest whiff of disrespect. I’m now even more terrified of having children. My newfound grip on cleanliness is tenuous; I fear it may snap. But life is a process; if I were perfect, I’d have nothing left to learn. And I never want to stop learning. I never want to stop changing. I never want to stop improving. I may not be a butterfly quite yet, but I like to think the lovely spots on my baby-weak wings are forming nicely.

How did you improve from your time abroad?

Spring Ahead, Fall Back

April 19, 2009 in Ex-Patriate Games, Japanese Mix, spazarific, Things I Will Miss About Japan

It never quite feels like I’m really back in Japan until I hear my first shopkeeper scream, いらっしゃいませ!!!” We arrived at KIX at 10 in the morning and were at Bob’s apartment by noon. Bob, who very graciously held on to all of our wordly effects while we were away, had also offered to put us up while we await yet another flight. For the next few hours we alternated between chatting, subjecting Bob to a Malaysia and Viet Nam slideshow, napping, and drinking beer. At intervals, Bob strummed delicately on his guitar as a spring breeze blew through the tatami room. The cherry trees outside Bob’s apartment frame a large shrine. The night before Sean and I left for our trip, the three of us sat on the shrine’s steps, sipping beer under the moonlight. The sakura were in full bloom then, cradling our 10 p.m. beer and takoyaki snack.

These are the things you miss.

In the past 3 weeks, most of the sakura have dropped to the ground, replaced by vivid green shoots. A first for Sean and I; ordering a pizza. In New York you can have your breakfast delivered with a side of marijuana if you like but Japan sticks to a rotation of curry rice and pizza delivery. Sean and I never ventured into the pizza realm, daunted both by the expense of pizzas in Japan and by our fear of speaking Japanese over the phone. And then you get Bob, yapping away like a pro and suddenly we have a 30 dollar Domino’s pizza to eat with our beer. Delicious.

Last night, we belatedly celebrated Sean’s birthday with Bob and a couple of Sean’s friends from the dojo. Sizzling Okonomiyaki in Tennoji. Getting blitzed at our Old Usual yakitori place – the one Bob, Sean and I discovered the first week we were in Japan, the one we regrouped at constantly, the one where they came to know us well enough that if they glimpsed one of our faces, they brought out 3 beers. There were the usual orders of tako no kara age, gyu rosu, yaki onigiri and heart. We were six, clustered at a large table, a tangle of socks and legs. We stayed well past last train and ordered round after round of beer and hot sake, finally so drunk that we decided to buy a few extra beers at the conbini and park ourselves in the middle of the sidewalk. We’re leaving. We don’t care that we’re acting like crazy foreigners, sure to draw disapproving attention. Pass the dried squid. What kind of beer is this – “Green Aroma”? What does that even mean? We decide that if the cops come by, we’ll claim we’re having a Hanami. If they point out that there are no more cherry blossoms, or even any trees nearby, we’ll claim we’re too drunk to notice.

These are the things you miss.

I’ve been out of Japan for almost 3 weeks now and when I head to midtown to do errands, things around me seem brighter, fresher somehow. I feel slightly off kilter and even though the vast majority of our errands are done, I still feel a pressure bearing down on my back. I’ve had some time now to plan the Last Dance and am satisfied with my plan, even if I am unexpectedly emotional and dangerously close to showing it.

Outside, the weather is splendid. Locals are already complaining that it’s too summer-like for their tastes but I think it’s exquisite. The air is crisp and fresh, shaking out the green baby leaves. And, for me, the strange thing is that after 3 weeks in 32 degree weather, this Spring bliss no longer feels like Spring, but like Fall with its cool, gray light and somber mood; heralding the rapidly-approaching end of the sunshine.

Brush-a Brush-a Brush-a

January 27, 2009 in I'm Learning Japanese ... I Really Think So, Japanese Mix, Kawaii

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My new toothpaste. It’s peppermint-flavored, made from natural ingredients. And, of course, extra cute.

Brush, Baby

January 20, 2009 in Japanese Mix, Kawaii

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This is my computer lint brush. It was an impulse buy from Loft; super cute, ostensibly handy and, perhaps, so quirky that, like my mugen edamame keychain, it risked falling into the “perfectly good waste of several hundred yen” category. And yet, I’ve used it several times a day since I bought it 2 apartments ago. Take that, computer lint.