An Italian Education

In Italy, the streets are almost always named for great people in Italian history. Nearly every city and town will have a piazza or viale honoring the protagonists of the Italian unification: Garibaldi, Mazzini, Vittorio Emanuele II, and Cavour. Sometimes you get the great Renaissance painters, sometimes you get the most famous authors and poets; […]

Why I Did Not Celebrate Halloween (and Will Not Celebrate Thanksgiving)

The zucche are back in season – round squash with bright melon-like flesh and ivory-colored bulletproof rinds. I see heaps of them in a plastic milk crate at the market and think about it for a heartbeat, but then remember the toughness of that rind, my desperate awkwardness with knives and, above all, the fact […]

Food Slut

It’s April 5th and we’re in Hungary: in Budapest, at an Easter Market, staring down wooden kiosks laden with painted Easter Eggs, bottles of elderflower syrup and strawberry wine; giant cast iron skillets heaped with fat red sausages, rainbow-colored root vegetables, and spicy potatoes. One kiosk attendant stirs a black cauldron full of porky, savory […]